For now, here is the last part of The Icelandic Calling by our guest writer Feather. Iceland is a special place indeed. It affects everyone differently.

Have you been to Iceland yet? What inspired or impressed you the most?

Crescendo 渐强

If I have to find something that had a bad influence on me after traveling around Iceland, I have to confess that it totally took away my pleasure from listening to Sigur Rós. After listening to their albums almost non-stop during a two days road trip, one can’t possibility go back to a city and appreciate their music in a hullabaloo. It’s true that Jónsi used to bring me closer to Iceland with his elf-like voice. However once you smell the Icelandic wind you won’t be able to get satisfied only by your imagination again. Nothing compares to the sound of the sea, waves battling the rocks, and the road that stretches as far as the eye can see.

The only thing on the road for miles is your car while a song of Sigur Rós is playing. Right at that moment you roll down the window and let the wind in, that voice did sound like from heaven. Even though you were moving, it was as if everything was still, time froze and you were lost in your own space. It didn’t matter whether you knew Icelandic or not, you understood the words he tenderly pronounced or even just a simple humming.

Actually Jónsi even invented a language called ‘Hopelandic’, a language’ in which Jónsi sings before lyrics are written to the vocals. It is not an actual language but rather a form of gibberish vocals that fit to the music. Some of their songs were written in it and it is not the meaning that matters the most here but the Icelandic spirit. I believe that everyone has  a place deep inside that can be entered only by themselves. It’s a place no one else can reach. For me, it’s my private Mars. And after visiting Iceland, every time I listen to John Grant’s I Wanna Go To Marz, I can’t stop thinking about Iceland. Now that I’ve landed there, I’m losing my words to describe my feelings. I guess I’m just simply lost on Mars.

One two three four

Bittersweet strawberry marshmallow butterscotch

Polarbear cashew dixieland phosphate chocolate

My tutti frutti special raspberry, leave it to me

Three grace scotch lassie cherry smash lemon free

I wanna go to Marz

Where green rivers flow

And your sweet sixteen is waiting for you after the show

I wanna go to Marz

We’ll meet the gold dust twins tonight

You’ll get your heart’s desire; I will meet you under the lights

Golden champagne juicy grapefruit lucky monday

High school footall hot fudge buffalo tulip sundae

Almond caramel frappe pineapple rootbeer

Black and white pennyapple henry ford sweetheart maple tea

I wanna go to Marz

Where green rivers flow

And your sweet sixteen is waiting for you after the show

I wanna go to Marz

We’ll meet the gold dust twins tonight

You’ll get your heart’s desire, I will meet you under the lights you under the lights

                                                     —– I wanna go to Marz

      John Grant

Iceland belongs to only someone, someone who can hear its calling. For the rest of the people, Iceland doesn’t really exist. However I came here by no accident. Ever since my friend planted this alien seed in my head I kept hearing its calling. I still believe as a grown up or not, those who choose to go to Iceland keep a special piece of Neverland in their heart.

Switch to the frequency…

Hush…close your eyes.

Now, can you hear it—-the Icelandic calling….

The post The Icelandic Calling VI appeared first on Somethingabouticeland.

Or their national obsession for handball. I have no clue about handball to be honest. The closest I got to it was when we tried to play it a few times during sport class back in school. But that was ages ago…

But Icelanders love handball and their national team is among the best. Every 10 y/o can tell you the names of the players and don’t you dare to miss a game. The Icelandic national team also has been doing quite well so far in the Olympics. How does the Icelandic handball coach Guðmundur Þ. Guðmundsson explain the success of his team? Well, he has been quoted in the international media, saying ”We have no army in Iceland, so it’s with handball we fight for the recognition.”

Among the people attending the Olympic matches was also Iceland’s president Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson. In an interview with TIME magazine  the president uttered the following thoughts on the handball game:

“Handball, for us, has become not just a sport, but the core of the national spirit.Can anyone honestly say the same about any single U.S. Olympic team? No way. I’m here not just as a great fan of the team, but to also pay homage to what they’ve done.”

So there you have it. Handball…

Personally, I prefer Rugby. Join the team if you like

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Feather loves cats. In fact she is a cat in disguise.

Cats are everywhere in Reykjavík and they will get your attention. I got the impression that for a capital city, Reykjavik has an unusually high number of town cats on the prowl. It seems also that Icelandic cats have somewhat of an awesomeness factor (and I say that although I’m more of a dog person).

So here’s Feather’s account about her encounters with these feline creatures.

As a person that flirts with every cat she can see, Icelandic cats brought me a lot of unexpected joy. I never expected them to be warm and open to strangers. As I assumed, Icelandic people are like most of the Nordic people – a bit shy and reserved when it comes to strangers or at least at the first meeting (no alcohol included). I suppose I was expecting the same characteristics from their lovely cats. Bearing that in mind I still couldn’t stop myself from petting every single one I saw on the streets. As a matter of fact, the temptation is so strong because cats are everywhere. It seems that almost every other family has a cat and they let their cats take over whatever they feel like owning.

Whenever I walked past the yard, the cat would approach me before I even took my first move. Some of them would walk out the gate and lay down with their belly pointing at the sky. There was “pet me” written all over their face. Every once in a while, if they found out the fence was locked and they were too fat to squeeze through between the gaps, they would try to make the jump.

As a result, they would wind up hanging on the fence by their nails and I had to rescue them from swinging over the wooden fence. Once again, I can’t resist the sparkling round eyes looking at me “saying” “help me”. I guess they don’t get to see that many people all year round, so they have to take whatever attention is offered during the lovely Icelandic summer.

The post The Icelandic Calling V – Cats appeared first on Somethingabouticeland.

(Another alternative is of course that you hide in your hostel/hotel room and hate the world. But that is no fun, isn’t it?)

Note on the side: Forget umbrellas. They don’t really work in Iceland. When rain and wind sweeps the island, the water will attack you from all directions. It will not only come from above, be assured.

Icelanders themselves are not much bothered by the rain. You get wet, but it will dry again in no time.

So you’re in Reykjavík, and it’s raining. Don’t despair. Here are 7 ideas of how to make the best out of a rainy/stormy day, week or weekend.

#1 Hot pot

The worse the weather the better the hot pots and pools! Yes, they are mostly outside, but who cares when you sit in 40° Celsius warm water if it rains or snows?

Do I have to elaborate again on the joys and pleasures of the Icelandic swimming pools? Nope, just go and enjoy. You get everything you need at the pool and there are 3 of them very close to downtown. So this is the ideal thing to do on a rainy day. You can do this anytime between 6 am and 10 pm, so before heading out or after you’ve fought your way through the rain. It’s a nice way to warm up and chill out.

# 2 Grab a coffee

There are loads of cafés downtown, offering good posibilities to chill out. Most of them have book corners, free coffee refills and free Wi-Fi and also sweet treats that will brighten up your mood. Also Icelandic coffee is excellent and worth a try.

If you are up for some activity and just want to grab something on the go that will definitelly cheer you up, stop by at Litli Bóndabærinn. It’s a small take away coffee shop on Laugavegur 41. They are famous for their gorgeous gluten free brownies, vegetarian sausage rolls, tasty sandwiches and of course their delicious organic coffee (or chai latte, tea, hot chocolate)…. Yum!

Another faveourite of mine is C is for Cookie in Týsgata 8. They do great cakes and Latte.

In general I would recommend going to a café around Laugavegur or Skólavördustigur and to avoid the ones around Austurstraeti as they are rather pricey and don’t have free coffee refills. You find a list of cafés and what they have to offer here.

# 3 Get some culture

In between sitting in a hot pot and a café you also want to do something for your brain? No problem. Reykjavík is full of art galleries and museums and they are all in each others walking distance (maybe 5-10 min apart).

Close to the Tjörn (the pond) are the National Gallery, which offers a diverse selection of Icelandic Art, or the National Museum of Iceland, which has a really great exhibition from the early beginnings of Icelandic society until now. If this is your thing then you might also be interested in the Settlement Exhibition, which you find downtown. And in the harbour area you find the Reykjavík Art Museum. On the way to it you could even grab a quick hot dog at Bæjarins bestu pylsur, the famous hot dog stand, also located in the same street as the museum.

And then there are many more, from the Maritime Museum (also located in the harbour) to the Penis Museum aka Phallological Museum (yes you read it correct. They even have a human specimen) – you’ll have enough museums to visit and enough opportunities to enhance your knowledge until your brain explodes.

# 4 City Library

Just wanna hang out somewhere dry that doesn’t cost you a dime and gives you something to do?

The City library is open Monday to Sunday and is next to the Reykjavík Art Museum. The flea market (see # 5) and the hot dog stand are just down the road. If those options are not walking distance then I dunno. You could just make your way from building to building.

The library offers comfortable reading corners and a vast selection of magazines, newspapers and books in all kind of languages. Also there is free Wi-Fi up on the 5th floor (plus a nice view of the harbour). So this is a good option to chill out in a dry place without spending money. Opening times Monday to Friday 10 – 7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 1 – 5 pm.

# 5 Kolaportið

If it is a weekend, then Kolaportið - the flea market close to the harbour –  is a must, no matter how the weather is. It is open every Saturday and Sunday from 11 to 5 pm and has become somewhat of an institution in Reykjavík because it has been there since 1989.

You can easily kill a few hours in here. There are loads of stalls with sellers, selling everything from clothes, books, to jewelry and much more. You are sure to find some great bargains if you take your time and look around. Here you might also find a cheaper version of one of those hand-knitted Icelandic wool sweaters (lopapeysa) that you see in all the tourist shops.

There is also a market corner where you can find Icelandic delicacies, everything from delicious flat bread, to cakes, meat, fish and rotten shark.

The café in the corner might not look too inviting to you, but they do a very tasty fish & chips. And if that is not enough, then right in front of  the building you’ll find the hot dog stand.

# 6 Enjoy a pint

Self explanatory. Why walk around in the rain when instead you could enjoy a cold one? If you want to save a few bucks check out our Happy Hour guide. Also some of the pubs have quiz nights and live music in the evenings. Get a free copy of The Reykjavík Grapevine. Inside you’ll find the listings of everything that’s happening that week.

A great chill out place on Laugavegur is for example Hemi og Valdi. And if you like to taste different kinds of actually good Icelandic beer then I would highly recommend you the Micro Bar. They have a huge selection and Happy hour every day between 5 and 7 pm. (Yes, we are a fan!)

# 7 Watch a movie

What is better than to watch a movie when it is pouring rain outside? Bíó Paradís is a small independent cinema in the city center and it is worth visiting even if you don’t want to see a movie. Its spacious and cozy entrance hall has tables and couches to hang out. Is has a nice living-room atmosphere.

Movie wise you get a unique selection of international and Icelandic movies with English subtitles that you don’t get to see in other cinemas in town.

They also have beer, games and popcorn. Do I have to say more?

The post 7 Ideas For A Rainy Day In Reykjavík appeared first on Somethingabouticeland.

As mentioned many times before, Iceland is a small country – population wise – but Reykjavik is even smaller. With about 120.000 people in the capital area, Iceland’s density is about 3 people per square kilometer. With that in mind, two facts come up quickly.

First, Icelanders party like there is no tomorrow. Living in a small community, they go out as if the night was the last party in town ever before they return herding sheep in a remote valley.

Second, everbody goes out as if no one was within ear shot. You will hear girls yelling at boys, boys shouting in their phone with a loud “Hvar ertu?” (where are you?), music will come blasting out of bars and the main street will be full of people going on a pub crawl. Icelanders love to party and love to dress up. A rather common trait they share with their Scandinavian cousins.

Personally I must say it took me no time to get used to the Icelandic nightlife because it is not so different from the Finnish one, which I had the pleasure to enjoy for a couple of winters. There is only one rule for the weekend  - You Party until you drop! No half things! You drink and die in the late morning hours. And if you humiliate yourself in public, don’t worry, everyone else in your company will be equally as drunk! And don’t worry about the hangover the next day, you’ll have a full week to recover and Einar’s post-party hangover guide.

So yes. Perhaps if you are used to a quiet village life or more sopisticated behaviour, this might come as a shock to you. People puking  before midnight on main street Laugavegur, marching straight on while drowning the next bottle of beer and their mate laughing his ass off, telling them “cheers!” – a common sight.

Broken bottles everywhere or twenty-meter queues in sight – usual weekend routine.

Girls too drunk to walk in their sky high heels and stumbling all over the place – normal.

Hipsters, barbies, people in clown costumes, fashonistas, all dressed-up, dressed-down, tourists in their waterproof ensembles… anything goes and everything can be spotted.

So you want to join in on the weekend madness? Well, it might become an unforgetable night, or a night to forget…  Just be prepared when heading downtown.

But before you say: “Wait, but the bars were empty when we went out!” That was probably because you went out either on a weekday or way before Icelanders do. First of all, the only party until they drop on Friday and Saturdays. And when they do, they first drink at home because it is cheaper and then they hit the streets already highly intoxicated around 1 or 2 a.m.!

Well, I guess best is to drink in order to blend in and to blur your vision and to blend some of the madness out. Cheapest option for those coming on holiday – make sure you grab enough booze at the duty free shop upon arrival. And if you have missed that chance check out our list of Happy Hours in order to save a few bucks!

And last but not least did you know that the U.S. Government warns American tourists coming to Iceland on their homepage about the wild Icelandic nightlife because it is supposed to be rather outrageous…

Is it, or do Nordic people simply know how to party? Better you come and see for yourself. Happy weekend everyone!

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Part IV of the Icelandic Calling by Feather. Have you been to those Vintage shops yet that Icelanders seem to love? Personally I prefer Kolaportið (the flea market every weekend in the harbour of Reykjavík) or the Red Cross shop, as they are definitely the cheaper options.

It is quite a delightful thing to watch Icelandic youngsters walking down the street. Sometimes it feels like you are watching a movie, not certain which era you are in. They are really good at matching up completely different styles and eras. What looked like from the last decade could be working perfectly with a modern brand.

However, it all started to make sense as soon as I spotted their lovely second hand vintage shops. With a relatively isolated society, you have to deal with what you have. Local young people may not have not such a prosperous clothes business available as they can’t visit New York or Milan. That would be highly unrealistic.

In order to look different as well look good, they learn to dress themselves when they were young, using whatever they could get their hands on, maybe granny’s sweater or mum’s old dress. It is like a treasure hunt when shopping in the second hand shops or flea markets. You will never know what you may find among others’ “trash”. I imagine it is fun to see someone bring your clothes to new life and give them a soul. And the young guys are somehow self-educating themselves at how to turn into hipsters. In a way they don’t follow popular or foreign trends – they invent one.

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Those are the Reynisdrangar and that’s what Vík is famous for (besides of being one of the wettest places in Iceland), making it a favourite tourist destination. But there is more than Vík to see in the south of Iceland. Here are loads more of ideas, after Dyrhólaey, of what to do on a day tour along the south coast.

Rynisdrangar seen from Vík

Vík í Mýrdal is the southernmost and biggest village (I would rather call it “settlement”) with about 300 inhabitants along the south coast of Iceland. It is about 180 km (110 miles) south of Reykjavík. Tourists will usually stop here while driving along the N1 – the Ring Road – or make this the last stop of their day tour to see the Black Beach, before heading back to Reykjavík.

If you plan on continuing from Vík, note that there is nothing for the next 70 km (43 miles). And Hvolsvöllur is 80km north of Vík, which makes Vík the only service centre for the people between Skógar and the west edge of the Mýrdalssandur plain.

How to find the Reynishverfi beach?

The black beach in Vík is nice and so are the famous basalt columns – the Reynisdrangar. But if you are more adventurous and would like to put those huge 68m high rocks into a different perspective than the ones you see on postcards and discover more interesting rock formations, then you should take a right-turn about 10 km before Vík. A small sign will point you in the direction of Reynishöfn where you can take a look at the Reynishverfi beach.

Without a map or guide book on bord, we discovered the beach during the attempt of getting closer to the Reynis Mountain. The Reynishverfi beach is on the western side of the 340m high Reynisfjall, which is the mountain cliff in front of Reynisdrangar, with the black beach and Vík on its eastern side.

View of Dyrhólaey

On top of the mountain are ruins of a loran station. During the Second World War the Allied forces built a road up to the top, which is probably the steepest one in Iceland. And apparently the cliffs are also a favourite nesting place for Puffins. I haven’t seen any of those yet. I guess we were there before they arrived. Also I haven’t been up on the mountain yet, but once you get up there the view over Vík, the big glacier Mýrdalsjökull, the Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey must be spectacular. I’ll make sure to explore this spot the next time I head south.

Reynishverfi beach and its massive basalt columns

Reynishverfi is a long stony beach on the western side of the mountain cliff. At the bottom of the cliff I was struck by the sight of columnar basalt which reminded me strongly of the famous Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. And in front of the mountain are the Reynisdrangar.

These columnar basalt creations are rather impressive and according to legend, the Reynisdrangar needles are the remains of 2 night-trolls, who tried to pull a three-masted ship to land. But they were caught by the dawn and when daylight broke they turned into stone.

Columnar basalt is created by the cooling of lava flow. The cooling causes a contraction of the lava and creates fractures, perpendicular to the surface of the lava flow, with hexagonal forms. And the slower the lava cooled the more regular the columns are, hence the stair-like resemblance.
And because they are like stairs, you can climb them quite easily to get an excellent view of the Reynisdrangar. And if you look along the beach towards the west, you’ll see the massive Dyrhólaey arch. The premonitory of Dyrhólaey is definitely worth a visit as well and a nice place to walk around (if it is not too windy that is).

If you afraid of heights walk past the basalt columns along the beach and you can explore a number of caves on the south-western foot of the Reynis Mountain. Just watch out for the waves rolling towards the shore. They can be rather big and impressive as there is nothing to stop them between here and Antarctica.

And as in so many other places, there is of course a legend to be found in this place as well.

A monster was supposed to have lived in one of the many caves at the bottom of the cliff for many centuries. But since a landslide more than 100 years ago, the monster seems to have disappeared.

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Here comes part III of  The Icelandic Calling, where Feather tells about her impressions of Iceland.

Topic of the day: Crazy nightlife and the most popular restaurant in Iceland - Bæjarins bestu pylsur.

Smorzando 渐弱到消失

By  Feather

Night life is an inevitable encounter when staying in Iceland. There are always some kind of gigs happening in some nice bar and there are places where you can just get drunk and take over the dance floor. There’s even a saying that “almost every Icelandic person is a musician”. It might be a bit exaggerated, however it’s true that many of them can play instruments and some of the local bands are much better than signed bands outside of Iceland. With such an alternative atmosphere, it is almost impossible not to fall for Reykjavik. Most of the bars are right at the city center, no more than several blocks away from each other, so if there’s a queue, you can always change your destination.

As we are talking about queues, I am amazed that actually the longest queue I saw in Reykjavik was actually at 4am on the street in front of a hot dog booth. Apparently that’s the most famous hot dog booth in Reykjavík. (Mel says: It is apparently the most popular “restaurant” in Iceland and there is always a queue, doesn’t matter what time of day! I was able to watch the stand from the office I was working at for a few months. Seems like some folks live on hot dogs… People also claim that they are the best hot dogs you can get. Perhaps you should go and see for yourself. Bill Clinton was there too.)

But I really started to wonder if that’s the only hot dog booth they have here because almost everyone seemed to go there after too much alcohol and entertainment at the bar. I bet the guy who sells the hot dogs must have a strong heart, seeing every night how people look and behave after partying all night. It takes great courage to stare right into girls faces when their smoky eyes turn into panda eyes, let alone watching them swallow three hot dogs in a row, standing right in front of the booth.
I suppose, after a long and hard winter, one deserves a crazy summer to let out all the negative energy that was stored away.

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But wait! There is more! There is much more to discover along the south coast. So it would definitely be wise to take your time. For example you could relax at the oldest pool in Iceland – Seljavallalaug, which you find between Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. Or when in Skógar, go and visit Kvernufoss. Further down the Road 1 to Vík you’ll find the Sólheima glacier  and just before Vík you could turn and visit the southernmost part of Iceland – Dyrhólaey.

Dyrhólaey is a 120m high promontory and it name means “the door hole island”. And this is also how it looks like. The promontory got its name from the massive stone arch that the sea has eroded from the headland. And this arch is visible from as far away as Skógar. From on top of Skógafoss you can get a beautiful view of the arch – on a clear day that is.

How to get there?

Continue on the main road (N1) from Skógar to Vík. To get to Dyrhólaey you take a right turn about 15 km before Vík (watch the signs). Follow the road and it will lead you to a parking lot about 6km from the main road. From here you are free to explore the surroundings of the promontory.

Dyrhólaey is supposed to have been created during an interglacial period late in the Ice Age by a submarine volcanic eruption. The cliffs are a beautiful assembly of basalt columns; forming arches, stairs, towers – whatever you can imagine – and they rise over a long expanse of black sand to the north and south.

Dyrhólaey - View of Reynisdrangar

The western part of the promontory is names Háey (High Island) and the part in the east is often referred to as Lágey (Low Island). Yes, Icelanders like to give very descriptive place names. (Just look at Skógar.) While in the past farmers often went fishing around Dyrhólaey, today they have developed a nesting site for eider ducks for the gathering of down. But also loads of other birds find a home here.  Therefore all the cliffs, rocks, etc. are protected area and Dyrhólaey has been a natural reserve since 1978. Hence it can also happen that the access to the promontory is closed during nesting season in spring. Check their homepage beforehand.

So be careful when wandering around. Don’t disturb the birds or damage the vegetation. And DON’T go too close to the edge of the cliffs, trying to take that perfect picture! Just a few months ago a land slide occurred. A part of the cliff broke off with two tourists on top. They survived the 40 m deep fall with bad injuries and broken bones. Yes, nature in Iceland is unpredictable so better be safe than sorry.

To the lighthouse

A short walk uphill from the parking lot on top of the hill is an old lighthouse. I definitely recommend walking up here although it must be one of the windiest spots ever. We really had to fight our way up and down hill as the wind was so strong. Once we got up there we took shelter, staying close to the lighthouse walls. The very first lighthouse was built in 1910 and the one you see nowadays was built in 1927. There are also a sheepcote and a barn not far from the lighthouse. These were for the first lighthouse keeper.

From on top of the hill you get the best view of the massive stone arch. When the sea is calm, boats can sail through it and once upon a time a stunt pilot is said to have flown through it as well.

Looking north

Looking north you can see the whole western coastline – on a clear day as far as to the Vestmannaeyar.  To the east the big glacier Mýrdalsjökull is visible. It reaches a height of almost 1450 m. And north east you can also spot the mountains and glacier Eyjafallajökull.

View of Myrdalsjökull

View of Reynisdrangar

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So if you find yourself driving south towards Seljalandsfoss and Skógar and its waterfalls,  and you are not in a hurry, or it is raining or you are stressed or whatever, why not take a break in Hvolsvöllur?

Where is it?

Hvolsvöllur, a village of 800, is about 100 km south of Reykjavík on the N1 towards Vík. It is the last village/town with a proper petrol station, small supermarket and vínbúð (off license) before the 80 km further away Vík. Check the opening times of vínbúð beforehand if you need something from there, as they are rather funny. For example vínbúðin in Vík is only open from 17:00 to 18:00 on Monday to Thursdays.

So if you need supplies, this is more or less your only chance for the next 80 km!

Swimming in Hvolsvöllur

Hvolsvöllur Swimming Pool, Vallarbraut 16, Hvolsvöllur - Phone: +354 487 8607

As pretty much every village in Iceland, Hvolsvöllur has a pretty neat and nice swimming pool. To determine whether a place is a village, a petrol station is a rather good indicator. And if there is a petrol station then the next swimming pool cannot be far away.

So if you get into Hvolsvöllur on the N1 from Selfoss, take a left turn just after passing the first petrol station on your left when entering the village. There is also a sign pointing in the direction of the pool.

As with all pools in Iceland,  you can rent swimsuits, trunks and towels at the pool for a small extra fee (in case you forgot yours).

And this small outdoor pool with its hot pots and small kids pool impressed us with another special feature – free coffee right next to the hot tub! Soaking in hot water while drinking coffee! Only beer would be better of course. But Icelanders really like their coffee too. No guarantees though that it will always be there.

Tip

‘Sundlaug’ is the Icelandic word for swimming pool. And wherever in Iceland you see a sign like this, it’ll lead you to the next hot pot and  pool.

And if all that swimming made you hungry, there is a nice café just opposite the N1 petrol station called Eldstó Art Café, where all the interior is hand made. They have really delicious soup and other goodies for your stomach and also the coffee is way better than the one you get at the petrol station.

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